<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META content="MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500" name=GENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi guys,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Just thought I would post a little discovery I made
that probably everyone else has too, but here goes anyway. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I know a lot of you have the Crogi PCC's and the
"old look" GM buses, all with standee windows, these and and all other models
with windows like this suffer from the same problem, even (to a lesser degree)
the beautifull SPTC Pgh PCC's. The problem? Flush glazing, this is not just
these cars, other streetcars and buses have/had windows that were flush with the
body mounted in rubber "grummets" so that, when you look down the side of the
body, the windows should be flush with the sides, not recessed as the Corgi
models are with just a bit of plastic behind the window space.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Many year ago, I built an Osaka (Japan) car which
had very large flush top windows and had a hell of a time flush fitting those
windows but did it (you can see a picture on Dave's Rail Pix), anyway, back
to the main line. As I am working on my next production bus in HO (Marmon
Herrington T/C) I was pondering how I could tell the purchasers a way
of reproducing that look (I have to do something while I'm driving my Streetcars
at work!!). Then I remembered my friends in the aircraft
modelling group I'm in (aviation is my other love)</FONT> <FONT
face=Arial size=2>and the product they used when scratch building an aircraft
and have to make windows (and you don't get more flush windows than and
aeroplane!) it a product called "Crystal Clear" all this is, is white or PVC
glue.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>It can only be used in small cavities, about 1/4"
square is about max, it's not perfect, but gives the closest effect other than
individually fitting each window, last night I tested it out on the standee
windows of a Corgi PCC, varrying from very thin to really thick, the thinner you
do it the more it "sags" in the middle, the thicker you make it, the longer the
"white" takes to turn clear but the result (takes overnight) is more flush, as
soon as get the digital camera back, I'll take some pix. According to my
friends, the most successfull way to do it (I've modified this for our purposes)
is to finish the model and paint it, then do the flush windows, then clear
varnish the model, this has the effect of "Doping are flying model aeroplane"
that is, to stretch the "Crystal Clear" and make it even better, the good part
is, at leats with the Corgi's, if you stuff it up, it's water based and is
easily removed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hope this ahs been of interest.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Greg</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>