windows

[Dietrich, Robert J.]

Greg:
 
Great stuff that crystal clear, especially for those of us in HO.  
 
I am curious though, what did you use for the clear varnish that stretched
the CC?  Also how do you make the thicker CC applications?  Do you ever use
two coats of CC?
 
Since you opened the issue you have more work to do.  How can we do the same
on larger windows?  Most modern light rail vehicles have flush mounted
gasket windows and most of them are very large.  I have a model of the
Philadelphia Kawasaki car that hasn't been put together because I haven't
thought of a way to do the windows right.  My current thinking is to somehow
put a plug in the window frame, then pour in a clear liquid epoxy or even
that stuff you heat to make water.  Any thoughts?
 
Thanks.
 
Bob
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg King [mailto:tramway at one.net.au]
Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2000 6:54 PM
To: Interurbans at egroups.com
Cc: pittsburgh-railways at dementia.org
Subject: windows
 
Hi guys,
 
Just thought I would post a little discovery I made that probably everyone
else has too, but here goes anyway. 
 
I know a lot of you have the Crogi PCC's and the "old look" GM buses, all
with standee windows, these and and all other models with windows like this
suffer from the same problem, even (to a lesser degree) the beautifull SPTC
Pgh PCC's. The problem? Flush glazing, this is not just these cars, other
streetcars and buses have/had windows that were flush with the body mounted
in rubber "grummets" so that, when you look down the side of the body, the
windows should be flush with the sides, not recessed as the Corgi models are
with just a bit of plastic behind the window space.
 
Many year ago, I built an Osaka (Japan) car which had very large flush top
windows and had a hell of a time flush fitting those windows but did it (you
can see a picture on Dave's Rail Pix), anyway, back to the main line. As I
am working on my next production bus in HO (Marmon Herrington T/C) I was
pondering how I could tell the purchasers a way of reproducing that look (I
have to do something while I'm driving my Streetcars at work!!). Then I
remembered my friends in the aircraft modelling group I'm in (aviation is my
other love) and the product they used when scratch building an aircraft and
have to make windows (and you don't get more flush windows than and
aeroplane!) it a product called "Crystal Clear" all this is, is white or PVC
glue.
 
It can only be used in small cavities, about 1/4" square is about max, it's
not perfect, but gives the closest effect other than individually fitting
each window, last night I tested it out on the standee windows of a Corgi
PCC, varrying from very thin to really thick, the thinner you do it the more
it "sags" in the middle, the thicker you make it, the longer the "white"
takes to turn clear but the result (takes overnight) is more flush, as soon
as get the digital camera back, I'll take some pix. According to my friends,
the most successfull way to do it (I've modified this for our purposes) is
to finish the model and paint it, then do the flush windows, then clear
varnish the model, this has the effect of "Doping are flying model
aeroplane" that is, to stretch the "Crystal Clear" and make it even better,
the good part is, at leats with the Corgi's, if you stuff it up, it's water
based and is easily removed.
 
Hope this ahs been of interest.
 
Greg
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