[PRCo] Switzerland
Schneider Fred
fwschneider at comcast.net
Wed Dec 17 00:29:32 EST 2008
LötschbergYOU KNOW THIS IS PRIMARILY FOR SEVERAL PEOPLE WHO ARE ON
THE LIST. BUT IF SOMEONE ELSE WANTS TO READ IT ... FINE.
OTHERWISE, YOU KNOW WHERE THAT BUTTON IS ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE
KEYBOARD THAT DELETES. I WON'T BE OFFENDED. NO ONE IS BEING FORCED
READ. SUBJECT IS CLEARLY IDENTIFIED.
GUT GUNUG? GOOD ENOUGH? I WAS HAVING FUN LOOKING AT THESE.
One of the most beautiful countries on the planet ... been there many
many times. One of those places there I really don't need an excuse
to go back, I just need to peek the wallet first to see if it will
support the trip. Where, Die Schweiz. Suisse. Switzerland.
(By the way, it is one that chose not to be part and parcel with the
European Economic Community. They still have the Swiss Franc
instead of the Euro Dollar.)
This is hardly comprehensive. I simply looked for things that
impressed me. But there are always other things that could be
added. I simply tried to convey the spectacular beauty of the
country. What I did not show are a lot of open air museums, places
like the church in Zurich where Zwingli preached, the fabulous zoo in
Basel, the red sandstone minster or cathedral in Basel or the city's
famous city hall, and so forth. They're all in Michelin or Baedeckers.
The first video is a mixture ... starts out with Geneva (those huge
trolley buses and the colorless trams), passes through Bern and ends
up in Zurich. The yellow and red cars are in Basel. By the way,
if you buy a Swiss Pass before you go, it includes the trolleys in
the largest cities.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1VQ09skH5pg
The blue trolley buses may be Zurich. Starting with the green
trolley bus you are in Bern, My reaction to the sequence of the red
coach coming down the hill was " that's by the bear pits in Bern" ...
the bear's are the signature of the city. And sure enough the bears
turn up next. (And the rose garden on top of the hill is also a
signature of the city.) The remainder of this tape is Bern.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gA2HA9B_0o
This video is accompanied by a foot stomping song about the sun
shining in the morning. Well it wasn't that morning but still it has
some fabulous scenes of Zurich with and without trams including the
tour tram. Many of these are in front of the main train station and
on Bahnhofstrasse (Station Street) which is a really upscale shopping
street.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXb4TnuzPXw
These Siemens Combinos have been built since the last time I was in
Bern (the red Combinos going through the old gate), then Baselland
Transport in Basel (the red and yellow cars)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18BxAGAHnYg&feature=related
This whole line in Geneva is new since I was last there. That city
had abandoned everything but route number 1 and now they are
restoring routes. Geneva is in the western part of the country in
the French speaking area. But don't worry, the hotel and restaurant
people speak English. No one goes hungry. Fred had no trouble
getting a Chinese lunch.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaq9F0J8uT4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCyHmEtVd8I&feature=related
And I stuck this in because the fountain in Lake Geneva is sort of a
trademark of the city of Geneva
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TpWCZEhfto&feature=related
But why do most railfans go to Switzerland? To ride the trains.
Whether it is Swiss Federal, or the independents, there can nothing
more spectucular. The picks here are in no particular order.
Just things that came to mind. Things I looked for because to me
they were signature railroads for railfans.
Let's start with the Gornegratbahn from Zermat. Zermat is a town
that prohibits automobiles. You either drive to a park and ride lot
outside of town and take train in, or you ride all the way from Brig
on the Brig-Visp-Zermatt mete-gauge train. Why do you ride the
Gornegratbahn? Supposedly beautiful views of the Matterhorn. I've
never seen the mountain for the clouds. By the way, the Eurail Pass
or the Swiss Pass does not cover these extreme mountain railroads ...
at best it may get you a 20% discount. In case you didn't pick up
on it ... two trolley wires and two side by side pantographs ...
three phase alternating current.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O67sQ1472fI&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJZnE0KCbPo&feature=related
The Brig-Visp-Zermatt Bahn, the Furka-Oberalp Bahn, and Rhatischebahn
all partner to run the Glacier Express (and many other trains over
the length of the three railroads from Zermatt to Brig, Andermatt,
and Chur in eastern Switzerland. Enroute it cross both north-south
standard gauge lines through Switzerland, the Simplon Tunnel route at
Brig and over the St. Gotthard Pass tunnel at Andermatt. I picked
this out of all the many Glacier Express videos as the one I thought
was the most representative. I like the way it starts in the
basement of the Zurich Airport ... a great place to arrive in
Switzerland because the trains meet you right in the airport. You
can get a train from there right to Brig! The clip of the
Landwasser Viaduct ... that's on the Rhatian railway southwest of
Chur in the direction of San Moritz. (Our friend John Bromley was
photographing it from the ground this last October.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO2A_5H97ks&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXZpaLi_q7E&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DGBEmzZNTI&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOwUAU1JeeU
On the north side of the alps (the other of the range from the Furka
Oberalp) is a small town called Interlaken (Between the Lakes, in
English). A branch of the standard gauge Bern Lötschberg Simplon
Railway from the west meets the narrow gauge (meter gauge) Swiss
Federal Railway line from Lucerne (to the northeast). South of
Interlaken are several meter-gauge lines going into the mountains.
These are worth several days of exploration. The brown trains with
BOB on the side are the Berneroberlandbahnen (Bernese Overland
Railway) ... it runs south from Interlaken to Zweilütschinen, where
you see the junction where trains are split. One line goes
southeast to Grindelwald, the other southward to Lauterbrunnen.
Connecting the two ends is the Wengernalpbahn (the olive and cream or
green and yellow cars), which is mostly rack operated. There are
some pictures of it in here too. One of my favorite small towns is
Wengen, nestled on the east side of a glacially-carved valley high
above Lauterbrunnen. No automobiles are allowed. All the food,
bedding, shaving cream, everything comes in on BOB and the
Werngernalp. I remember standing on the back porch of a hotel one
night ... twilight in September ... looking across the valley and
thinking ... won't be long now until the first snow of the season.
Absolutely gorgeous star filled night. I've also been up on the
mountain in January too. Fantastic in the snow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5EKPIKzZKRo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcTbgCfUnVo&feature=relatedt
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40-hewybi_o
For all practical purposes Switzerland is 100% electrified ... well
99.99%. There are a couple of steam mountain railroads. This one
connects with BOB.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=311qTaAxn_k
At Kleine Scheidegg the Wengernalpbahn connects with the Jungfraubahn
(Young Lady Railway) for the trip up to Jungfraujoch (the saddle in
the mountains next to the Jungrau. There are three mountains in the
alps side-by-side, the Eiger, the Monk and the Junfrau (the Ogre,
the Monk and the Young Lady). Most of the Jungfraubahn is in tunnel
and the fare is exorbitant. I'm told you see nothing until you get
to the end of the line where you can see out of the galleries over
the snow capped alps. I've only ridden up as far as the tunnel
portal (much cheaper) and hiked backed down taking pictures of the
trains with the mountains and glaciers in the background. To use the
German word, phantastiche. In the the tape you will see the word
zahnradbahn. The word "zahn is tooth. Zahnrad is a toothed
wheel. Most of the mountain railways in Switzerland are rack
railways (we would use the term cog railways). In the peak season
they run trains in multiple sections.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yibh5_ehp4A&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrIQAtCu-i4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUKpJ3_ij50&feature=related
On the west side of the valley above Lauterbrunnen and directly
opposite the town of Wengen is the village of Mürren. It has a
railway with absolute no normal connection to the outside world.
There is a carbarn on top of the mountain. A funicular leads down
the side of the mountain to Lauterbrunnen. When the line bought new
cars 20 years or so ago, they were hauled up the mountain in crates
and assembled up on top. So, you take BOB to Lauterbrunnen and then
the funicular, and the the isolated Lauterbrunnen-Mürren Railway
south and hanging on the edge of the cliff to Mürren. Would you
like to return a different way? Well you can take the Standseilbahn
(the cable tramway) down the mountain from the village and catch the
post bus back to Lauterbrunnen. You can also taken the cable tramway
to the top of the mountain, get a sandwich, and enjoy the views. On
a clear day you can even see Bern.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRVRjXFqGGM&feature=related
Cows on the street in Mürren? In Europe the farm homes have the
barn in the house next to the kitchen. You march the cows out of
town to the pasture in the spring and back to the house in the
fall. Perfectly normal. If you are there at the right time of the
year, you'll see the cows come home.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71j3Q-CXDrk&feature=related
OK, if we're done in the mountains, back to Interlaken and we can
leave town. East of Interlaken, there is a Swiss Federal Railways
mainline to Lucerne. Just happens not be 1435 mm gauge (standard
gauge). Yes, standard gauge in Europe is the same as standard gauge
in the U. S. A. It all originated in England. This SBB line is
meter gauge. Now guys, if you are accustomed to riding at 12 mph on
Rio Grande's Silverton line in Colorado, don't for a minute think
that mountain narrow gauge railroad has to be slow. These trains
might drop down to 50 km/hr going up Brunig Pass but on the level ...
maybe 100 km/hr. This is one of those copyrighted professional
videos that someone stuck on youtube. It is at least sharp enough
that we can comment on class distinctions. Notice the large numbers
2 and 1 on the coaches by the doors as they pass the camera; they
stand for reasonable fare and show how much you had before you spent
it (50% more). Eurailpasses are automatically first class. But you
can buy country passes in either first or second class
denominations. Most people buy second class tickets unless they are
snobs. The only advantage to first class is on holiday weekends
when trains might be jammed. When I went to the on-line timetable
for tomorrow morning, I found four trains between 7:55 am and 9:00
out of Luzern with running times to Interlaken of 2 hours to 2:31 for
a route about 50 miles long over the mountains. Not too shabby.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7mMHZG9ypE
Another very pretty meter gauge line is the MOB (Montreaux Oberland
Bernoix) in western Switzerland ... connects the Bern region with
Montreaux. The second disc shows their Golden Panoramic coming into
Monreaux. Now back among those arches in the rear of the station
was the finest station restaurant I've ever found. I always
believed that when the language changed to French, the food became,
well, "C'est magnifique." And what they served there was one of the
finest meals I've ever had in a train station. The ambiance wasn't
bad sitting on the platform and watching trains either.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGDdeHnGaDI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpZ0cxHgOwU&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1HW2uNmFh0A&feature=related
Another one of my favorite small ones is the Ferrovia Centovalli (or
Hundred Valleys Railway) which runs from Domodóssola, Italy to
Locarno, Switzerland. Domodóssola is on the Italian State Railways
mainline south of the Simplon Tunnel. Now the trade secret, if you
go through the Simplon Tunnel with the intention of going to Locarno,
the Swiss Pass is valid in Italy for that ride. Otherwise you would
have to pay a fare for the Italian portion of the ride. So if you
are stopped, you just show the Swiss pass and tell the conductor you
are going to Centovalli. This is one of those lines that is hard to
distinguish from a interurban, in fact the east end winds up in a
subway in Locarno with a name that should never be inflicted on
American railfans. I think it has something to do with the words
Ferrovia a Ticino (the canton in Switzerland) and some other word.
The initials on the subway cars are FART. But in spite of having
had the worst arthritic back in my life at the time and winding up in
the hospital for back surgery a month later, I have to pronounce the
Centovalli as one of the most overlooked scenic railways in
Switzerland. Someone, however, didn't like the subway and had other
opinions as you will see when you click on that link.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0bhzk37L9I&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SR8q5RL2enE&NR=1
How about the standard gauge mainlines. Probably the two most
important are the BLS (Bern Lötschberg Simplon) line north-south from
which carries the Basel - Italy traffic toward the Simplon Tunnel and
the Swiss Federal Railways line through St. Gotthard Tunnel which
handles all the Munich - Zurich - Italy traffic.
Sudrampe or south ramp. The first film starts a Brig and runs in
sequence up out of the Rhone Valley toward Lötschberg tunnel (14.6
miles long, opened 1908). (Wir wirlassen Birg translates ... we
leave Brig.) There is no auto highway over the spine of the alps
here. You have to drive over 100 miles out your way to the west or
75 miles over worse roads to east ... the best part of day. You
will note that BLS runs auto racks through Lötschberg Tunnel on a
very convenient schedule. I've used them. You can also put your
car on a train through Simplon Tunnel going south out of Basel. The
Swiss have also been very good at "encouraging" or strong arming the
truckers into putting their cargo onto trains through the mountains
rather than polluting the pristine atmosphere. As a result, BLS has
been forced to double track their entire railroad within the past 15
years and some of it is triple tracked. The traffic they move is
nothing short of phenomenal. Of the next two links, the first is
the best. The second is redundant but if you like trains, trains,
trains and more trains on mountain bridges, go look at it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bb3E-AFkKtw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7D4gzXuqJl4&feature=related
If you are curious about handling of the auto trains, here is a clip
of one of them. You simply drive your car on. The train pulls
out. When it arrives at the other end, within a few seconds, the
side rails are dropped and you drive off. Can you imagine our FTA
approving that operation?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYhIuuumRkI
And this clip is the north side of Lötschberg tunnel ... not really
all that scenic. Unless you are really turned on to trains, I would
skip it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhxEMetpGfs
I could not find any good pictures of the Simplon Tunnel ... the far
south end of the BLS route ... but I did find this clip of someone's
trip from Domodóssola, Italy north to Brig, Switzerland. The very
last tunnel is Simplon ... it is 12 miles long and was completed in
1906.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9KcfKV-EXs&feature=related
But before we move on, the Bern Lötschberg Simplon railroad run a
steam ship (Dampfshiffe) named the Lötschberg on Lake Brienz. While
these are on the Brienzersee (east of Interlaken), I've also been on
BLS steamboats on the Tunersee to the west of Interlaken. The Swiss
Pass is valid on the ships too. The Eurailpass might also be valid
on them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIleegtSCM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOwUAU1JeeU
Finding good stuff on the St. Gotthard line on the internet isn't
easy and yet the spiral tunnels on the north side of the pass are
outstanding.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKQNGyNHjaA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7xj4lM6CMA&feature=related
Summary? The yellow buses, by the way, are run by the post
office. They go just about everywhere the trains don't. If you go
into a train station and buy a Kurzbuch (their version of the
Official Guide), you get both the bus and the train book. It's only
about two inches worth of schedules for a country of 7.58 million
people. There are some lies in this publicity blurb. They do run
late trains. Every railroad does. I've seen them 2 or 3 minutes
late in Switzerland once in a while but I have never once missed a
connection because one was late.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jKVyJsJUZ80
If I have teased anyone into a trip and he wants clarification or
more information, call or write. I was having a lot of fun bringing
back memories. Not reason not to share.
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